Climbing fall of 18meters RODELLAR Víctor

Digdigs2 Says:

Aug 30, 2011 - UIAA fall factors are a measure of distance vs rope in the system, it also requires a totally static belay. It is a 1.8 factor fall on 5 meters of rope. This looks like a 0.3 factor fall - it wouldn't even come close to harming the rope. A good explanation is at ukclimbing, or the petzl website

MultiNilon Says:

Aug 31, 2011 - ok thanks, i think its quite impossible to fall 1.8 factor fall because when the fall is that hard, it becomes impossibleto belay totally static.. let´s just say: Ropes never tear :)sory for my english

ichBinDerToni Says:

Sep 6, 2011 - theres just one thing to say:DICKHEAD!

Brad117485 Says:

Sep 9, 2011 - Well when that bolt gets weakened from assholes like him, I'll be sure to let you be the next one up.

Digdigs2 Says:

Sep 9, 2011 - Whatever... have a read of the BMC or Petzl websites for a basic understanding of belay forces on bolts. This guy has not loaded the bolt that much at all, and certainly not enough to weaken it.

Brad117485 Says:

Sep 10, 2011 - In ideal conditions, no he's not pushing the safety factor; however, you dont make assumptions about how well the bolt is placed, who placed it, or the age or condition. I work in the rigging industry, we build and install machines to test synthetic ropes and hardware. You're not going to tell me what is right or wrong. Unfortunately, a lot sport climbing spots are constantly being scrutinized for safety concerns and subsequent liability- and rightfully so. Be a good steward.

Digdigs2 Says:

Sep 11, 2011 - I worked for 3 yrs as a height safety specialist - one of my main duties was anchor installation & testing of old anchors. At Rodellar bolts are generally well placed & installed, Euros seem to place better bolts than in the US.That said, even a bad bolt would need a fair bit of outward force to dislodge it, more than the load here. Either way the next bolt down was high enough to stop him before the ground - redundancy is present in the system. As for a bolt being 'weakened' pfft!

MakeFoodNow Says:

Oct 20, 2011 - I'd say weakening of the bolt is a realistic concern (or at least weakening of the hanger). Metal parts do fatigue after repeated loading, and victory whippers just add to that fatigue. Shock loads can also turn properly fixed hangers into spinners, especially on soft rock (e.g. sandstone)Personally, I do everything I can to reduce wear on fixed equipment. No intentional falls, generally lead within my capabilities, and I try to rap off instead of lowering whenever possible.

Digdigs2 Says:

Oct 20, 2011 - If the force is low enough, i.e. fall factor <0.3, which this fall was, as would almost all sport falls be, the fatigue to the bolt will be so minimal you'd be replacing it due to the wear the 'binder creates or old age before the fatigue due to the falls.... This is limestone, not sandstone.... anyway anyone who uses expansion bolts on sandstone is asking for trouble - glue-ins are the way to go. But it is TIME that causes the problem with expansion bolts, not loading.

Digdigs2 Says:

Oct 20, 2011 - Actually - glue-ins should be the standard for bolts everywhere - much safer, longer lasting, can't be tampered with easily and there is no hanger to wear through. Expansion bolts are cheaper and easier to place - but like all cheap easy things probably best as a one-night stand.

Digdigs2 Says:

Oct 20, 2011 - look at this: routes. sydneyrockies. org. au / display / the lab / Fatigue+testingjust get rid of the spacesthe fall in the video would have registered 3kn absolute tops. A rally hash fall leaving a badly injured climber MAY generate 12kn - they'd be in hospital with broken ribs at the least... and their belayer would want to be running to the border.

forket42 Says:

Nov 8, 2011 - ive seen/done bigger:) so much fun

MegaTinkerball00 Says:

Nov 9, 2011 - OMG i thought he had no rope atached to him

MegaTinkerball00 Says:

Nov 9, 2011 - when i was 10 i was buush walking up a mountain and my friend was really close to the edge cause she wanted to see the view and she told me to come so i did and there was a part of lose gravil and my friend her name was Jessie slipped and grabbed me when we were falling i bumped my arm and there waas blood but there was water under neath us and then we hit the water and i got so cranky at her and then we had to swim for ages to get to shore!!!!!!

vimpel1232 Says:

Nov 13, 2011 - that was close )

rockclimberlj Says:

Nov 19, 2011 - Would love to fall from that Hight, although I wouldn't want to hit the rock on the way down. Great fall

Wazoodles Says:

Dec 8, 2011 - that knot?

Wazoodles Says:

Dec 8, 2011 - nah man, even some pro's jump off after making a big send

1942JJ Says:

Dec 25, 2011 - Oh come on, he let go. That ain't a fall. Hope that was a figure 8. Happy climbing.

1942JJ Says:

Dec 25, 2011 - Yeah correctly placed glue in's are great till they saw through them with a darn top rope.

Digdigs2 Says:

Dec 25, 2011 - yeah... takes a while though - just time to replace them... or use threaded rod with screw-on eyelets, then the eyelet can be replaced at will. An added bonus is that because they rotate it is not possible to put torsional load on the rod, thus stressing the glue. Downside is that the are a bit bigger and more visible.

fueldrop Says:

Jan 27, 2012 - I hope he bought a new rope after that...

victoorcr98 Says:

Feb 16, 2012 - ostia jajaja per haver-se matat jeje. ara seriament, aixo pot fer gracia pero el k ho va sufrir ho va tenir k psaar malament

GrimReaperOfEngland Says:

Feb 25, 2012 - if only that rope was around his neck.

assailant85 Says:

Mar 14, 2012 - his wife probably wanted children. he didn't.